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  EGG INCUBATION IN THE S.I.M.

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John A
Posted: 2010-03-19

This lid modification is for folks using Hovabator or any top-heated incubator. Its a necessary modification in orddr to build enough condensation and to raise humidity levels. Leopard gecko breeders using Hovabator remarked how the SIM wasn't building enough humidity and eggs were denting. When the sponge is attached to the lid and dampened, the heat above allows condensation to build up on the side walls thus keeping eggs from drying out and denting.


The substrate below the grid can remain Vermiculite, perlite or what ever medium you use. We are testing the cellulose sponge here at Squamata Concepts.


For customers who have purchased the SIM and are using the Hovabator you can copy from the photos or just ask and we will send the parts needed to complete the modification.


Basically, its cellulose sponge attached to the lid using Nylon screws. Total cost for all of these is less than $2.50. 




John A
Posted: 2010-03-07

Of course it could. Can I ask what kind of incubator you are using?


 


 


Donna Moorhouse
Posted: 2010-03-04

 


I have a pair of unsexed golden geckos.  I know they're egg gluers.


 


One of the goldies laid and egg inside her(I'm assuming) coco hut on the paper towel substrate.


 


I'm wondering-if I tear the paper towel around the egg, does anyone think it'llactually hatch if I put it in the SIM???


 


As I said-I have no idea od the genders here...could be a pair or two females.


 


They're nippy and flighty, so I ain't grabbing them and looking at their crotches...


 


Anyone with any xperience in Goldies??


John A
Posted: 2010-02-18


 


John A
Posted: 2010-02-18

Photo below:


Top egg- V. pilbarensis, day 43


Bottom egg- V. glauerti, day 69


Substrate- drenched and drained perlite


Temps- 83-84F


 


 


John A
Posted: 2010-01-21



Jeff Galewood's Super Zero White Out Fat Tail Geckos


 


 


John A
Posted: 2010-01-19

Let's add Fat Tail Geckos to the S.I.M. Success story! Jeff Galewood http://jmgreptile.com hatched White-Out Super Zeros!


Check it out on jmgreptile.com


 


 


John A
Posted: 2010-01-01

Recently, Shannon Plummer hatched Netted Dragons in the S.I.M.! All photos below courtesy of shannonplummerphotography.com


 


Here's her data:


 



Central Netted Dragon (Ctenophorus nuchalis) Clutch 1 -


Incubation Temp - 27˚C (+/-) first 5 weeks

Incubation Temp - 31˚C (+/-) remaining time

Humidity - 98%

Incubation Time  -  76 days



Central Netted Dragon (Ctenophorus nuchalis) Clutch 2 -

Incubation Temp - 31˚C (+/-)

Humidity - 98%

Incubation Time  - 55 days





 


 


John A
Posted: 2009-12-19

I currently have a couple of V. glauerti (Kimberely Rock Monitor) eggs in the S.I.M. Instead of measuring out equal parts  perlite and water by weight, I added water to the mix based on conditions inside the container in order to build a light mist of condensation on the side walls. There's a mist on the ceiling of the lid but not enough to form droplets. 


I am getting feedback from breeders who are using straight water in the reservoir of the S.I.M. This creates a heavy condensation build up and many reptile eggs cannot handle this much humidity. Best results have been with water mixed with substrate, and container conditions stabilized and monitored before putting eggs inside. 


Below are my SIM inside a custom incubator. The top 2 are showing less condensation build up- these containers are being used for ackie and kimberley rock monitor eggs. The bottom 2 are empty but will be worked on until the conditions match the SIM containers above. 


 


SIM Containers


 


 


John A
Posted: 2009-11-08
Yes, we use substrate under the grid. Straight water can slosh around if you move the S.I.M. wetting the eggs above. With 50/50 mix theres a fine mist of condensation on the lower walls and nearly none on the ceiling. Eggs should remain dry though some breeders incubated gecko eggs with very high condensation yielding 100% hatch rates.

For the species I worked with, sub tropical arboreal dwarf monitors and burrowing type monitors I used the 50 -50 mix with Perlite.

ubb
Posted: 2009-11-04
So am i right in saying you would use the substrate under the shelf where the eggs would lie , why not just use water then.

Thanks

Logan
Posted: 2009-10-27
could you please give me the external dimensions of the SIM so i can check how many would fit in my current incubator, thanx.

Logan
Posted: 2009-10-27
n/m, just checked the product info, sorry lol.

Andrea B.
Posted: 2009-10-19
Thanks for the info John!

John A
Posted: 2009-10-18
Hi Matt,

Do you have a scale?

If not, try drenching the perlite or vermiculite, squeeze out all the excess water. Although not precise, nearly all my clutches were incubated this way in the SIM and in past clutches.


Matt N
Posted: 2009-10-17
I'm a little confused about how many grams of substrate to put in the bottom.

John A
Posted: 2009-10-16
I would whip up my own batch of substrate- both perlite and vermiculite have worked for us and our customers. 50/50 by weight.

I haven't tried superhatch so I cannot comment on it...


Andrea B.
Posted: 2009-10-15
So, is perlite the recommended incubation medium? Or, can something like Hatchrite or SuperHatch be used?

Let me know. Thanks!!

-Andrea

John A
Posted: 2009-09-11
Its an egg container, not an incubator. Your choice for incubator can include home made converted fridge, cooler, heated room or any of the assorted manufactured incubators available. Our egg container will work in most ready made incubators. Our method of choice was a converted fridge.

Thanks,

John

philip
Posted: 2009-09-10
i dnt get it how is it heated ???

John A
Posted: 2009-09-04
Hello,

I have data for those who are interested. I keep 1.3 ackies, 1.1 tristis and a few other dwarf monitors. I also operate cybersalvator.com, the water monitor website.

Ackies:

3 clutches incubated in the S.I.M. Container. Substrate for clutch #1= 50/50 perlite water by weight. Clutch #2= perlite mixed with water crystals, unmeasured. Clutch #3= drenched perlite squeezed out excess water.

Clutch # 1 - Varanus acanthurus brachyurus- pipped 106 days

Clutch # 2 - same species, different mother, same father- pipped 104 days

Clutch # 3 - same species, different mother, same father- pipped 106 days

My babies hatched fully developed and without a yolk sac or remnant of.

Varanus tristis tristis:

4 clutches, clutch #1 and #3 = 1/2 buried in the substrate 50/ 50 perlite and water by weight.
Clutch #2, #4- in S.I.M. Container with 50/50 perlite to water by weight. All eggs from all varanus species incubated at 86F.

The eggs from clutch 2,4- pipped 89-90 days, hatched 90-91 days.

Eggs in 1/2 buried in substrate pipped 99 days, hatched 100 days. 1st clutch had 3 babies had egg sac remnants, clutch #2, 2 babies had egg sac remnants. One baby from clutch #1, #3 failed to pip.


http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2631/...bdd2ea13_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2624/...e1dac1d2_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2613/...7e06988f_o.jpg

Data shows eggs are pipping earlier than buried clutches and in shorter incubation time. This is likely due to the eggs absorbing Oxygen freely, without a barrier of CO2 surrounding the egg substrate. The babies are fully formed, with absorbed yolk in their fat round bellies. Buried clutches run the risk of too much water, too little water being absorbed, and excessive CO2 in the substrate. The S.I.M. is a safer incubation method overall.


Thanks,

John



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